Posts Tagged ‘Orks’


This is one of my favourite Games Workshop models of all time, Nagrub Wurrzag, ork scrap prospector. This is an old model from GW’s Gorkamorka range which has been in my collection for many years but I’ve only just got around to painting him. However, reading some old White Dwarfs  has reignited my interest in Gorkamorka and so I thought I would paint up a few models with the hope of maybe getting a couple of games in at some point. I kept to a fairly muted natural palette like the original Gorkamorka models.

Keep checking the blog for more Gorkamorka models soon.


Recently I have been working on a couple of different projects. Firstly, I have returned to the Space Wolf which was started some time ago. Initially I was dissatisfied with this model and it sat on my desk untouched because I couldn’t quite work up the motivation to finish it.

However, I have worked out what it was about the model that I wasn’t happy with; the warm yellow colour on the shoulder pads clashed with the cool blue/greys of the rest of the piece. Because of this I decided to go back and repaint the shoulder pads black and add the heraldry of Logan Grimnar’s Great Company (which came from one of GW’s new Space Wolf decals).  I think this decision has really paid off and the whole model looks a lot better for this change.

Applying Decals

I have not always been a fan of using decals on miniatures. There are a number of problems which can occur with them if not applied correctly which can ruin a model. Firstly, the backing material shows up as a faint glossy outline making the decal very obvious and, secondly, they do not always follow the contours of a model and can look creased or uneven. Fortunately there are a couple of tricks which can be employed to combat both problems.

The first trick for successfully applying decals I learned from Imperial Armour Model Masterclass vol 1. Apply a coat of gloss varnish to the surface where you wish to place the decal. This serves two functions: 1) it provides a smooth surface for the decal and prevents the problem of having air bubbles trapped underneath it. 2) it helps to hide the glossy outline of the decal.

Second, Model Scale Industries produce two products specifically designed to help with the applications of decals. These are Micro Sol and Micro Set. These help to soften the decal and make it more malleable so that it fits the contours of a model. Begin by applying a thin layers of Micro Set over where you want the decal to be. Then place the decal on top and slide it into position using a damp brush. You can then use a brush loaded with Micro Sol in order to soften the decal and shape it to the model. You have to be careful when doing this as the Micro Sol actually melts the decal and can make it very fragile and easy to tear.

Once the decal is positioned leave it to dry and then apply a second coat of gloss varnish. This both protects the decal and completes the process of hiding the glossy film around the edge. Once the gloss varnish has dried I dull it down with matt varnish. For this I use a bottle of brush-on Testor’s Dullcote Lacquer, although any matt varnish would do. I prefer the brush-on varnish rather than the spray as it gives you a greater degree control but it’s up to you which kind you use. For the Space Wolf the varnish actually ended up being a little rough looking and so I sanded to down with very fine emery paper (Tamiya’s p2000 finishing paper). Anything too abrasive will simply sand away all your hard work.


Epic Orks

I have also been continuing with my Epic ork army. Below is a test model for my Evil Sunz blitz brigade. The red took me a little while to get right as at first it looked a little too flat and I ended up working back and forth lightening and darkening  the red until I was happy with it. Below are roughly the steps I used to achieve the finished look:

1)Basecoat the red areas with Mephiston Red (you may need to use 2-3 thin coats to ensure even coverage).

2) Highlight this Blood Red.

3) I then washed it with Baal Red and shaded the recesses directly with Devlan Mud.

4) Then I layered it up with a several thin coats of Blood Red in order to produce a vibrant red.

5) This was then highlighted with Blazing Orange followed by small edge highlights of Vomit Brown ( a nice yellowy-brown colour, pure yellow would be too bright) on only the most prominent raised areas and sharp corners. Be careful no to overdo it or the whole model will look too orange.

Now that I have the basic method sorted out to my satisfaction I have started work on the rest of the formation. Here is how they currently look:

Tomorrow I’m off to Grasmere for the week in order to do some work with Wordsworth’s manuscripts but when I get back I will try and get these finished.

Have a great week,




Despite the lack of updates this month I have not been totally idle. I have finished painting up the first of my Kult of Speed formations for my orks. These are really nice detailed models from the Epic 40k era and were a joy to paint. First of all the models were painted with Boltgun Metal followed by Washes of Badab Black and Devlan Mud. Over this I applied Mephiston Red to the armour plates and highlighted them using Blood Red followed by Sqig Orange. I then embellished the buggies with a bit of freehand in order to add some more visual interest to the models. This mainly took the form of dags, checks and yellow flame patterns.

Some close-ups:




Blitz Brigade

It hasn’t just been the Evil Sunz that have been receiving attention this month. I also painted some Gun Wagonz for my Bad Moonz. So far I only have four finished but I plan on adding more along with some Oddboy characters and some flakwagonz.




Social Networking

In other news, I am experimenting with social networking and Miniature Miscellany is now on Twitter. Hopefully this will allow me to keep you updated on what I’m doing when it doesn’t warrant a full blog post. You can follow me or contact me, should you so wish, @Mini_Miscellany on Twitter. The Twitter feed will also be visible on the Miniature Miscellany homepage.

All the best,


I have finished my first submission for the ‘Tale of Epic Gamers’, Da Killin’ Moonz. Here are four stands of nobz which complete my Big Mob giving me my first legal formation for my ork army. Well, I say finished, I have left the banners black at this stage because I haven’t decided exactly what to do with them. I was planning on applying some decals but the decals I have are very old and will not come off the sheet. Have other people experienced this problem? I think I might buy some of the new Forge World ork decals to replace them. Does anyone know if any of the decals on the sheet are the correct size for Epic?

Anyway, here are the models:

I plan on adding some flak to this detachment but that will have to wait until next month now. I’ll post pics as soon as they are done.

All the best,



Tale of Epic Gamers

“All right, listen up ‘oomies! We’ve had enough of this pointy-eared nonsense – da boyz are back in town.”

Ahem, sorry about the interruption. These guys are probably just being impatient due to the fact they have been sat on my desk for some time now while I’ve been putting the finishing touches to some of my Eldar. However, I though it was time to photo some of my orks. These are for my ‘Tale of Epic Gamers’ thread over on the Tactical Command forum. The  ‘Tale’ is a group painting project designed to inspire Epic players to get their armies painted by painting up 500 points blocks on a monthly basis. Hopefully painting up my army alongside some talented painters on the forum along with the challenge of monthly deadlines will help me stay motivated throughout this project and paint up a force.

First up is a ‘big mob’ or orks. Unlike the strict compositions of Eldar formations, ork formations come in three basic sizes ‘normal’, ‘big’ and ‘huge’. These take the basic formation (two nobz, six orks and four grots) and double or triple it in size. In addition to this you can add all manner of upgrades which can be added in virtually any combination.


“Da dreads are dead killy in kombat. Dey look real flash wi’  der bright yella paint job, showin’ da uvver orkz who’s da richest!”

For this formation I have added some dreadnoughts in order to give the formation extra punch in assaults.They were painted using my usual technique for painting yellow. I think the bright colour works really well and certainly makes these models stand out on the table.

Da Boyz

“We orks are da tuffest fightas in da universe – don’t let dem beakies tell ya any different!”

Here are a few pics of the infantry stands just to get an idea of the variety of the ork models. These follow the same paint scheme as my test models. I am particularity pleased with how the Runt Herder came out. There are no rules for a lot of the ork characters which were released for Epic 40,000 but they add diversity to the regular stands (and ork armies should be nothing if not diverse). These were quite fun models to paint up and I think they look great all together.

I only have four stands of nobz to paint now and I will have my first legal formation for my ork army.

All the best,


Here are a few models that I painted up in order to test my colour scheme for my orks. I opted for the traditional yellow and blue colours of the Bad Moonz klan. I am happy with the look of these models and plan to roll out the colour scheme for the whole formation. These models are also noteworthy as they are the first models that I have painted using the new Citadel paints and I have to say that I was very pleased with them.

Here you can see the new paints that I used for painting the orks’ skin. I chose these colours as they are really nice natural muted greens rather than the bright garish greens you sometimes see on orks and this fits my style better. I based the skin with Loren Green and washed this with Athonian Camoshade. When this was dry I highlighted the orks using Straken Green, a colour that is specifically designed as  a highlight for Loren Green. Having different variations of the same colour like this really makes army painting easier. The paints themselves were very smooth and provided good coverage. The new paints come in pots that are superficially similar to the previous edition paints although GW have fixed the problem of the pots not staying open by themselves which is a very welcome change (no more sticking bits of sprue under the lid to hold it open).

Here are some close ups of the orks:

Well, that’s three stands down, only a few dozen more to go…

Have a great weekend,


Just a quick post to share what I’ve been up to recently. I’ve been spending my time cleaning and (re)basing some ork units for Epic.  I’ve always liked the idea of fielding a huge army of greenskins but knew that painting up all of those models for Warhammer or 40k would be impractical for one with my painting speed. However, Epic is the perfect game system for fielding ‘horde’ type armies. The models shown here were picked up on ebay and are a combination of the Space Marine era ‘Ork Invasion’ and ‘Ork Horde’ boxed sets along with the Epic 40k era ‘Ork Mob’ set. Together these offer a huge variety of different troop types and orks in different poses. I have combined ork boyz from different sets along with some of the obsolete troop types in order to create a suitably rag-tag look to my stands; after all, you don’t want orks to end up looking too unified. The inspiration for this came from Curtis’s orks over on Ninjabread and also Nico’s models on Realms of Chaos (both excellent blogs which are well worth checking out). Another source of inspiration was Carl Woodrow’s orks which can be seen on his old website Dropship which I’ve mentioned before here on Miniature Miscellany and is a great source for all things Epic.

When it came to basing the orks I wasn’t sure whether to use rectangular or round bases. Part of me thought that the orks would look better on round bases as this would make them less uniform (such as Curtis and Nico’s orks). However, in the end the decision was pretty much made for me as I have a box containing over a hundred of the Epic 40k strip bases and numerous square bases from older versions of Epic. As I had all of these bases  to hand it seemed only sensible to use rectangular bases. In addition to this a combination of strip, square and Warmaster bases would provide me with enough different size bases for all of the diverse troops and vehicles while still remaining visually coherent on the tabletop.

So far I have based enough orks for ‘Big’ mob (ork formations are either ‘Normal’, ‘Big’ or ”Uge’) along with enough buggies and warbikes  for two normal Kults of Speed or one big one. I also have a couple of Stompas and an assortment of infantry and big guns still to assemble which should provide me with a good starting point for a decent sized Waaagh!

All the best,


And it was all yellow

Posted: February 18, 2012 in Tutorial
Tags: , , , ,

A few people were interested in how I went about painting the yellow armour plates on my Bad Moon ork so I took some step-by-step pictures. Essentially I just followed an ‘Eavy Metal guide on painting Bad Moon orks. Here are my thought on the painting process.

Step 1


First of all I basecoated the yellow areas with Tausept Ochre. Although GW’s advertising claims that Foundation Paints can cover any primer in one coat I find it much better to apply several thinned coats for a smoother finish. This stage is just to provide a solid base over which a much brighter, more vibrant yellow can be painted.

Step 2


I then painted over the basecoat with a 50/50 mix of Iyanden Darksun and Golden Yellow again using several thin layers. At this point the yellow isn’t much to look at.

Step 3


The armour was then shaded with Dark Flesh to give it a deep, rich orange tone.

Step 4


I then reapplied the mix from step 2 and highlighted it by adding Skull White. I didn’t take pictures of both of these stages as I was painting quite quickly in order to prevent the paint from drying out ( I hate it when a paint mix dried during painting and you have to try and replicate it). The photo above shows the armour after the final highlight stage.

This was quite an easy guide to follow and, I’m pleased to say, my version ended up very similar to the example in the book. This is a good way to paint quite a difficult colour.

You can see the finished model here.

I’ve finished painting my Bad Moon ork in mega armour. This was primarily painted as an experiment in painting yellow and I’m very pleased with how it came out. I’m also very happy with other aspects of the model such as the ork’s skin and the metallic areas. I decided to do something a bit special for the base and made a scenic base for him. The base was painted to represent the deserts of Armageddon.

Although I have called this model finished in the title I’m still not 100% happy with him. I’m not sure what it is but I think something is missing. I might add a banner or boss pole in order to give the model a bit more height which might help with the overall composition. On the other hand I don’t want to overdo it and risk spoiling the model. If you have any suggestions please comment. I’d love to hear what you think.

The base was painted with Bestial Brown and drybrushed with the following colours: Bestial Brown, Snakebite Leather, Vomit Brown and finally Bleached Bone. The space marine helmet was painted in the colours of the Salamander chapter as I wanted to use a chapter that had fought at Armageddon but thought that red  for Blood Angels would be too distracting from the model itself whereas black for the Black Templars might end up not standing out. The green is neutral enough and also mirrors the green of the ork’s skin. The helmet was painted Knarloc Green, washed with Thraka Green and highlighted with Knarloc Green followed by Knarloc Green and Rotten Flesh. the grass tufts are GW’s Mordheim Turf.

Pictures of the base:

All the best,


Related Posts:

Today I managed to make some significant progress on the Bad Moon ork nob I’ve been working on. I have finished the metallic areas and managed to paint and weather the armour. Because of the large areas of exposed metal on the model I decided to paint the metal in two colours: steel and brass. The steel areas  were basecoated Boltgun Metal and washed with Badab Black followed by Devlan Mud. They were highlighted with Boltgun Metal followed by Mithril Silver. The brass areas were basecoated using an equal mix of Scorched Brown, Tin Bitz and Dwarf Bronze. This was also washed with Badab Black and was highlighted by adding Mithril Silver to the original mix. The recesses were washed with a 50/50 mix of Dark Angels Green and Hawk Turquoise before a final highlight of pure Mithril Silver was applied to the most prominent areas.

The pistons on the hydraulics were painted with Boltgun Metal but, unlike the other metallic areas, they were not washed with Badab Black and Devlan Mud. The reason for this is that I wanted them to look shiny and oily as they are moving parts and would have to be kept in good condition in order to function. If they looked rusty and corroded they wouldn’t look very realistic. To achieve an oily look I washed them with Gryphonne Sepia followed by a mix of Thrakka Green and Ogryn Flesh.

I won’t go into how I painted the yellow here as I have taken some step-by-step photos and plan on adding a tutorial on how to paint yellow to the blog soon.

The chips on the armour plates were painted using the same tromp l’oeil method I used on the cracks of the Bloody Reaver. This involved carefully painting on the chips and highlighting and shading them. In order to get chips that appeared to be different ages they were painted a variety of different colours. To begin with I painted the chips on using a mix of the yellow basecoat and Skull White. I then painted inside this with Dark Flesh. Some of the chips were then given a fine line of Scorched Brown to make them look even darker and older. Newer chips were painted by applying a small amount Boltgun Metal to the center of the chip.

I also painted on some freehand designs in black. The black flames are a traditional Bad Moon motif and so I had to include those. The checks on the shoulder were painted on in order to break up the large area of yellow on the model’s left and to help ‘balance out’ the colours more.

All that remains now is to paint the details and create a base for him.

All the best,


Related Posts:

Bad Moon ork – Part 1

Bad Moon ork – Part 2