Posts Tagged ‘Warhammer 40k’

Wound Markers

I decided to make some wound markers for my Astral Claws as a quick Saturday morning project. Basically, the number of skulls/helmets represent how many wounds a character has remaining. The skulls are taken from a number of kits (if you own any GW kits then chances are you have some skulls lying around somewhere) and the damaged helmets were taken from Chaos trophy racks. I could have used regular marine helmets but these had battle damage already sculpted on and so saved me a bit of time.

Wound Markers

The helmets were painted to match my Astral Claws models whereas the skulls were an opportunity to try out my new method of painting bone. Previously I had used Zandri Dust and Ushabti Bone for skulls, however, recently I have moved to using a basecoat of Baneblade Brown washed with Agrax Earthshade and then highlighted Baneblade Brown, Rakarth Flesh, Pallid Wych Flesh and finally White Scar. This produces a much paler, more realistic bone colour than the creamy/yellow look achieved with Ushabti bone. The ground texture was then painted to match the rest of my army.

Wound Markers

Wound Markers

I plan on creating a few more themed gaming aides in the future including some objective markers converted from the Space Marine casualty models. Watch this space.

-Andy.

Lord of the Rings Ruins

Over the last few days I have been working on a number of different projects. I have managed to get these ruins finished for Lord of the Rings and continued to work on my Dark Eldar. I had hoped to get more done with the Dark Eldar but the weather conspired against me at the weekend and a combination of high winds and rain meant that I was unable to prime my raiders for painting. Instead, I took the time to work on Space Hulk and started to paint up some genestealers which have been primed and sitting on a shelf looking at me accusingly for a number of months now.

Lord of the Rings Ruins

Below you can see my raiders in their various sub-assemblies. As I plan on airbrushing these I decided to keep them in a number of separate parts to make this easier. However, even if painting by hand it would make sense to paint them as sub-assemblies because of the number of fiddly components that would make certain areas hard to access with a brush.

Raiders sub-assemblies

Here is my first genestealer which was completed a while back as a test model. As you can see, I have gone with the traditional genestealer colours of blue and purple and tried to paint these in a dark moody style like those seen in White Dwarf. I have also tried to get a contrast in textures between the hard carapace and the softer skin by using sharp edge highlights on the carapace and subtle blending on the skin.

Genestealer test model

And here are four of his mates who I was working on over the weekend.

Space Hulk Genestealers

The raiders are going to have to wait until the weekend before I can airbrush them but hopefully I will get a chance to do a bit more work on these guys throughout the week.

-Andy.

Something a bit different from me today, an Imperial Guard Malcador from Forge World painted in winter camouflage. I used this model to experiment with a number if painting techniques described in Model Masterclass Volume One. The model is for sale so if you are interested check out the ebay auction.

Malcador in winter camoflauge Malcador in winter camoflauge Malcador in winter camoflauge Malcador in winter camoflauge

Dark Eldar Raider

Here is my raider converted to have wych crew. The gunner was simply swapped for the one from my venom while the pilot was made using parts from the wych kit with the original pilot’s arms. All in all a very simple conversion but one which will tie the model in nicely with the squad it transports.

When kitting out the raider I was inspired by the wych’s background. The codex describes them using their reaver jetbikes as weapons when fighting in the arenas of Commorragh and I thought that they would extend this philosophy to their transports on the battlefield. As such I have given it all kinds of aggressive upgrades such as chain snares, a shock prow and venom blades (represented by the spiky, thorn-like rails) to encourage me to use it offensively in games.

Dark Eldar Raider

Dark Eldar Raider

Dark Eldar Raider

Hopefully I will get some time to paint this before term starts again next week.

Andy.

Venom Gunner

Just a quick update to show the finished gunner who will be glued to the back of the venom when it is finished. As you can see, I have used a Kabalite gunner from the raider kit to build him rather than the wych gunner who comes with the set. This is because I plan on switching them around and using the wych gunner on a raider so that it matches the wych squad it will transport.

Wych Cult of Strife

Here is my first completed model for my Dark Eldar army: a test model for the Wych Cult of Strife. Originally she was painted int he red and black colour scheme of the Wych Cult of Domination (see White Dwarf 241) as I wanted my Wych Cult members to have a different colour scheme to the rest of my Dark Eldar. However, the black and red was lacking something and so I repainted the armour green and bronze and added a purple sash.

Close-up

Wych Cult of Strife

Wych Cult of Strife

Wych Cult of Strife

A close up of the glow effect on the sword:

Sword

I have also done a little more work on the venom:

Dark Eldar Venom

Let me know what you think.

Andy.

Dark Eldar Venom

A Hobby Detour

As is so often the case, my hobby plans have shifted slightly. Originally I was planning on allying my Harlequins with a Craftworld Eldar force. However, the brand-new Harlequins really showed up how dated the Eldar range is. Instead ideas started growing in my mind of collecting a Dark Eldar army instead. As luck would have it, the opportunity to purchase a sizeable Dark Eldar army at a significantly discounted price came up via a friend of a friend.

At the moment I am uncertain what colours to use to paint my Harlequin jetbikes; I want them to look like the deep purple jetbikes seen on the cover of White Dwarf but I’m unsure what paints to use to achieve this. As a result, I decided to put the Harlequins on hold and get started with the Dark Eldar instead, using the venom I assembled earlier as a test model.

Dark Eldar Venom

The model is painted in the colours of the Kabal of the Black Heart. It was primed black before being given a basecoat using Incubi Darkness spray paint. Highlights of Kabalite Green were airbrushed on. The panel lines were shaded with Nuln Oil and a subtle edge highlight of Kabailte Green was applied (although they are hard to see in the photo). The next step will be to add further highlights using Sybarite Green before painting the details.

-Andy.

Harlequin Vehicles

Over the last couple of weeks I have been slowly assembling the vehicles to go with my Harlequin troupe. Not only do the kits look fantastic but they are really well designed too and many of the components fit together so well that when dry-fitting them they remained in place even without glue.

Skyweaver Jetbikes

The Skyweaver Jetbikes are the models that first attracted me to the Harlequin range and so it has been great fun putting them together. My one criticism of the models is that they do not attach to the flying stands very well and will need gluing in place. However, this is a minor niggle. For these models I have tried to match the masks of the riders to the ‘mask’ on the jetbike, so here both riders have skull-like masks to match the canopy of the bike.

WIP Harlequins 2015

I have started work on two more Harlequins to join my troupe. So fat they have had the main colours blocked in. Just washes and highlights to go. More details on how they were painted can be found in my previous post.

Harlequins 2015

The first three Harlequins are finished and based. It has been really satisfying seeing these models come together as they are very different to the Astral Claws and Lord of the Rings models I have been working on recently and are totally unlike anything I have painted before. They feature far more extensive freehand than I have ever painted on a model and the diamond patterns are quite tricky. However, I have learned a few tricks along the way and I’ll share these with you below.

For the colour scheme I opted for the ‘Masque of Midnight Sorrow’ as the three primary colours look very effective and it was their picture on GW’s website that really attracted me to the Harlequins in the first place, particularly the deep purple/red colour of their vehicles (which I will try and replicate on my own models at some point in the future).

Eldar Harlequin

Eldar Harlequin

Eldar Harlequin

Planning Your Colour Scheme.

This lady was the first of the Harlequins I painted and I learned a lot about painting diamonds working on this model. Firstly, I would encourage any Harlequin painter to think very carefully about the placement of the patterned areas. You want a nice clear area that you can get good access to with a paintbrush. Also, straight limbs are easier to paint the pattern on as you don’t need to worry about how the pattern will follow the contours of the fabric.

On this model, for example, I made the mistake of choosing to paint the right sleeve with the diamond pattern. However, the problem with this was the fact that the model is holding a sword in a backward grip which obscured the back of the sleeve and made painting this area very fiddly. In the end I resorted to the unorthodox method of carefully snapping off the arm, painting it as a separate piece and then gluing it back on!

I would also think carefully about the size of the diamonds. Smaller diamonds are obviously harder to paint. Also, from a distance the effect is a little indistinct whereas larger diamonds stand out better.

Eldar Harlequin

Eldar Harlequin

This chap is one of my favourite Harlequins. I really love the mask with the phallic, beak-like nose; it reminds me of one of the extras from the masqued ball scene in the film Labyrinth. The pose of this guy is copied directly from one of the old metal Harlequins from when the range was first redesigned back in 2007. A number of the components of this kit match the design of those earlier models (the Troupe Master being a particularly obvious example) so it is possible to recreate them in plastic should you wish to do so.

Eldar Harlequin

Eldar Harlequin

This guy is my favourite of my Harlequins so far. I really love the mask and his pose is very dynamic as he leaps forward into battle with his coat billowing behind him. One of the lessons I learned with this model is just how fragile some of the Harlequin components are and I accidentally broke the scarf that trails behind his head while painting him. This was easily repaired by drilling a small hole in the knot of the scarf and gluing the end of the scarf tails in with polystyrene cement but it does demonstrate how delicate they are. When painting the models this is something to be aware of. One tip for avoiding this is to blue tack the model to a wine bottle corkĀ  and use this to hold the model in order to minimise how much you need to handle the figure itself. For this I use corks sold for home-bottling wine rather that ones taken from wine bottles as a) most wine these days doesn’t come in corked bottles and b) used corks are misshapen and will not stand straight. They are dead cheap and readily available from shops such as Wilkinsons.

Another thing you may notice about this model is the red and blue lapels; this was another way of introducing some colour without having to spend ages painting tiny diamonds. Not only is this a time-saving device but it stops the model looking too overwhelming. I find it better to judiciously apply diamonds to specific areas rather than go overboard.

Eldar Harlequin

Eldar Harlequin

From the back you can the diamond pattern I airbrushed onto his coat using stencils cut from masking tape. Full credit for this idea goes to Tim Davis (aka Dezartfox) over at The Vanus Temple who wrote this tutorial on the subject. When I first saw his Solitaire on Twitter I was so impressed by the subtlety of the effect that I knew I had to give it a go. I used a pencil and ruler to mark out squares on a strip of masking tape and then cut them out with a sharp craft knife before sticking them at an angle onto the coat. Eshin Grey and Codex Grey were gently airbrushed on starting dark and blending up to a lighter colour at the bottom to get the fading pattern. This simple technique looks great and adds some interest to what might otherwise have been an empty surface.

Painting the Harlequins

When painting the Harlequins I started out by blocking out the basic colours. While this is a useful technique for any model, for models as colourful as the Harlequins it is important to make sure that you are getting the colour balance right. I did this using Balor Brown followed by Averland sunset for the yellow (the brown provides a better base for the yellow that painting directly over a black undercoat), Mephiston Red for the red, Liche Purple for the purple areas, Screamer Pink for the red/purple areas and Lightning Bolt Blue for both the blue and the diamond patterned areas (the red would be added later). The masks were basecoated with Russ Grey.

Diamonds are a Harlequin’s Best Friend

For the diamond pattern I found that the hardest thing was getting the pattern to join up at the back. Through trial and error and much frustration I came up with the idea of painting vertical lines of thinned Abaddon Black down the front, back and either side of the arm or leg at even intervals. I then painted a series of crosses in the columns created. This ensures that all of the diamonds line up and that there are an even number of diamonds going around the area (essential so that you can alternate the colour of the diamonds and not end up with two diamonds of the same colour side by side). After this, the pattern was filled in using Mephiston Red. The tops of the diamonds were then highlighted with two sharp lines using either Temple Guard Blue or Evil Sunz Scarlet.

Here’s a high-tech visualisation to give you a better idea of what I mean:

Plotting Diamonds

Hopefully you can see how the lines create colums which are then filled in with crosses to mark out the diamond pattern.

Back to Black

I have previously written about painting black on this blog. However, I have found that since the new Citadel pant range has been released painting black has become a lot easier and I have a new, quicker method which is perfect for painting rank-and-file troops (I still use my other methods but these are best saved for characters or display models). For the Harlequins, I simply highlighted the black areas using Dark Reaper followed by Thunderhawk Blue. This produces a nice blue/black look which is simple to achieve and takes no time at all.

And the Rest.

The other areas were relatively straightforward and used a base colour followed by a wash and a highlight. the colours used were:

  • Mephiston Red > Carroburg Crimson > Evil Sunz Scarlet
  • Lightning Bolt Blue > Drakenhoff Nightshade > Temple Guard Blue
  • Screamer Pink > Carroburg Crimson > Pink Horror
  • Liche Purple > Leviathan Purple > Liche Purple and white
  • Averland Sunset > Cassandora Yellow > Flash Gitz Yellow

The masks were painted Russ Grey and highlighted using a mix of Fenrisian Grey and White Scar up to final highlights of pure White Scar. As these form the faces of the models it’s worth taking your time over this stage and using lots of thin layers to build up a smooth finish.

And that’s it really. Other than the diamonds these are deceptively easy models to paint. Right, now onto the rest of the squad…

Andy.